August 18, 20265 min read
Frozen pipes are not random. Year after year the same locations fail: supply lines running through crawlspaces near a foundation vent, pipes in an unheated garage or addition, lines on the cold side of wall insulation, and outdoor hose bibs that were left charged when the temperature dropped.
If you know where the cold air reaches your plumbing, you know where to spend your time before freeze-up.
Start with the hose bibs
Exterior spigots are the single most common failure point. Disconnect every hose, close the interior shut-off if the bib has one, then open the spigot to drain the remaining water. A hose left attached traps water in the bib and splits it on the first hard night.
Seal the air path before adding insulation
Insulation slows heat loss; it does not stop moving cold air. If a crawlspace vent, rim joist gap or garage penetration is blowing cold air directly across a pipe, sealing that path matters more than the pipe wrap. Do the air sealing first, then insulate the pipe.
Know where your shut-off is
Before winter, find your main shut-off valve and confirm it actually closes. Seized valves are extremely common, and discovering yours does not work while water is running through a ceiling is the worst possible time.
If it will not close smoothly, replacing it is a small job now and an expensive one later.
If a pipe does freeze
Open the affected faucet so melt water has somewhere to go, then apply gentle heat working from the fixture back toward the blockage. Never use an open flame. Watch for a split as pressure returns, and keep the shut-off within reach.
If you lose water to a whole section of the house, or the pipe is inside a wall, call us. Thawing a hidden line without damaging it takes the right approach.
Need this handled rather than explained?
Call (877) 570-8952